It seems that this year has become a time of big moves in the fashion industry. At the head of the year it was announced that Hedi Slimane, recently departed from his groundbreaking tenure at his revamped house Saint Laurent, would be overtaking Céline. Although many were heartbroken and confused of his departure, the news of his takeover of another iconic healed every wound of despair.
This, in a variety of fashion communities has not only sparked intense discussion, but wonder and curiosity of what the creative genius might do next in revamping such an iconic and stagnant house of design. I, as a Saint Laurent fan and follower, have become even more excited to see what happens next for Céline, another brand favourite of mine, in Slimane’s hands.
Yesterday, we learnt of another quite incredible shift in the world fashion through the appointment of Riccardo Tisci for Burberry. Tisci, who recently departed the house of Givenchy just last year, has been free of creative efforts for quite a while. It is about time that he has been scooped up by another iconic brand… But, Burberry?
Personally, I have never been a real fan of Burberry. The design and heritage, while classic and timeless, has become less of a shocker, and more predictable. I do commend Christopher Bailey for growing and evolving the house’s design and attention to detail, adding a sense of edge and wonder. This announcement sends out a wave of excitement, confusion, and curiosity regarding how Riccardo Tisci will emblazon his mark on such an iconic house.
Tisci is known for his punk-gothic-street aesthetic that he slowly crafted during his tenure house of Givenchy. He was likely one of the first designers to succeed in creating buzz for ridiculously overpriced graphic tees — around $5-700, if I’m not mistaken. Today, a simple distressed Givenchy logo t-shirt retails for $1000, which is the highest price-point of any logo tee on the market.
Other designers have followed the overpriced logo-tee trend, including that of Alessandro Michele, another not-too-distantly appointed creative director for Gucci, who has likewise changed the game in fashion. Considering there is an immense resurgence of vintage and 90s culture in luxury, especially in upcycled “bootleg” logos and designs sold upwards of triple digit price tags — that may have retailed for a third of the price originally — are what buyers and enthusiasts WANT.
Bailey, who followed the same concept in repurposing vintage Burberry’s logos and styles in the latest — and what we assume to be his last — collection for SS18, ended on a high note. He has set the standard for Tisci to come in, on the concept of street-infused-luxury RTW, and I think the timing is SO RIGHT! All I care about is the latest in who’s designing who’s label next, and this news has got me on the edge of my seat!
What are your thoughts on this profound shift in direction of the [fairly stagnant] house of Burberry?
I know I’m definitely excited, and ready for some nouveau design to take us on an entirely new journey!